Building central filter sistems

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Building central filter sistems

Postby Svetozar Savin » Mon Jun 12, 2006 8:43 am

Hi everybody.

I have plans to build hachery and to equip it with one central filter sistem but I can't find any good plans how to do thath.
Can some one put some good shems for building with some foto sesions abouth thath.

Thanks
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Postby Mick Burke » Mon Jun 12, 2006 1:19 pm

Hi Svetozar :welcome:

I don't use a central system, but may I suggest, you give the following information, which may assist the 'experts to offer assistance' ?

What are the parameters of the water at source (Tap / Well / Other?).

What approx size, will all the tanks be, when added togther.

With these two bits of info, it will be easier to speculate, what you need to do to the water (if anything!) and how much you will need to produce, this will help with component sizing etc.

Cheers, Mick B :cool:
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Postby Svetozar Savin » Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:55 am

Hi Mick

I have plan to build 10 large tanks for maturing the fishes and 20 tanks for spawing of pairs.
Since i have read it is not good to attach all aquariums at one sistem I have plane to build separate filters for every level.

Water at my region is a very low quality for discus kepeing; hardnes is at 25 dH and it is full of chlour and other harmful substances.
I own one reverse osmosis unit for produce good water with aditional ading of mineral salts.
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Postby Mick Burke » Tue Jun 13, 2006 7:58 am

Hi Svetozar,

Additional info should assist, Unfortunatly, I have no experience of multiple-systems, but would speculate;
10 large tanks, say 50 gallons each = 500 gallons.
20 breeding cubes at 20 gallons each = 400 gallons.
Total 900 gallons.

Assuming you may need to change upto 20% a day, and heavily laden mineral content in the water, I guess you would be blending RO product, with filtered tap water at the rate of about 4 RO to 1 Tap, so your RO production rate, would need to be 900 X 0.2 X 0.8 = 144 gallons of RO product per day.

So, although I cannot advise on how to 'pipe up the system' I do believe, you may need to consider, being able to produce approx 200 gallons/day of RO product water.

May give you some indication of scale etc?

Good luck, I hope others will now 'chip-in' :question:

Cheers, Mick B :cool:
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Postby Fred Goodall » Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:50 am

Hi Svetazar :welcome:

For that amount of R.O. water you would need an R.O. filter system with "pump"... bit expensive.

You could actually have 1 or 2 central filters... but with piping set up with valve to shut off any / each tank from that central filter... this would be for the breeding pairs... and in those tanks you would / should have "sponge filter"... usual choice is "air driven"... so for that many tanks... a large volume air pump is needed... you might even want to look into a "blower" to supply air if you plan to expand even more.

Your breeder should be "high" and the fry can be "low" in tank placement. The pump you will want depends on if you are using 1 or 2 central / wet-dry filters.
Regards,

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Postby Svetozar Savin » Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:59 am

Thans Fred
I have understud you replay. I allready have one RO unit with the pump it was expensive but i need it becouse my tap water is realy poor quality.
My major idea with this post was to initiate some one to put put pictures of such sistem so thath every body can see how thath sistem looks.

My idea allso was to put air bloved sponge filters in each breeding and rising tank and shut off valves are apsolutly necessery.
I allso have idea to attach two big 200gal reservoirs with sistem so thath i can have prepared water all the times i need.
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Postby Fred Goodall » Wed Jun 14, 2006 11:12 pm

Hi Svetozar :welcome:

For storage... food grade poly barrels are good way to store the water.

For some ideas with pics... link below.

http://article.discusnews.com/catagory- ... l#yourself
Regards,

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"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were; and I say, "Why not?""(Bernard Shaw)
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Postby Tom Krühlmann » Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:57 am

And just some additional info you may find useful: I have attached an AquaMedic level controller with two sensors in my central filtration unit (last chamber = pump chamber). This unit controls a feed pump located in my reservoir and thus, when water level drops in filter due to evaporation (not likely in discus setups ;-) )or due to siphoning out debris or just plain waterchange - sensot will alert controller which will then fire up the feedpump and resupply water to filtration champer which in turn will be returned to tanks.

Works great - saves time and could be expanded further with a magnetic shut-off valve and connection directly to tap / RO water supply.
Regards,

Tom
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Central filtration system.

Postby Nandi Hivatal » Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:59 pm

Hi Svetozar!

I used to operate a centrally filtered system with 24 x 50gallon tanks. They were all identical size, the breeding tanks had a sponge diving the tank in two halves.
A centrally filtered system has many advantages, but it holds just as many disadvantages as well. If there's a little 'bug' in the system somewhere, it will spread over the entire setup in a matter of about 30 minutes if your water turnover rate is somewhere near decent.
For a good turnover rate you should drill two wholes on each tank, as one may not be enough if you don't go the big diameter way.

There's one thing that caught my eye for the very first time the article appeared on my screen and it was the number of tanks you are planning to set up. If you are planning to build 10 big (I assume it means somewhere around 5-600 liters each) tanks for raising fish, then the maximum number of breeding tanks should not be more than maybe 5 or 6. I made the same mistake of setting up my system with 12 breeding pairs and soon I was so packed with fry under marketable size that my RO units just could not cope with the water needs and it all ended up in a disaster. And when there's a tiny little disaster in a central system, a massive one is surely on its way.

And talking about RO units: For a system so big you will need a BIG RO unit. If you undersize it, it's money burned. I would say that the minimum daily production capacity should be near 35-50% of the total amount of water your system holds. This is also a long-term safety investment.
You can get the Merlin system on the market at a very low price these days (under 500 dollars if you know the right man), but I would not recommend them as their ability to retain certain pollutants (nitrate - for a start) is not very good.
I would recommend a system with 2 or 3 150GPD membranes on a 3-pod prefilter rack.
I know that some German breeders recirculate their tank water through a pumped RO unit (which in case of a 3-membrane system is handy anyway), minimising their water bill. A properly functioning RO unit takes all pollutants out of the water (including bacteria cysts and viruses), so they are a perfect solution in case of hard times as well.
You should definately get a unit with an in-line TDS-meter and a pressure gauge to be able to monitor your product water. If the output TDS rises and the pressure drops, it's time to change your prefilter. Also, if the unit you get is not fitted with a flush valve, install one, as the frequent use of it will make the membranes last a lot longer.

A very nice example for a hatchery using central filtration and RO-recirculating system is: XXXXXXXXX(German only). The owner only breeds Red Turqs and Brilliant Turqs, but they are the most beautiful ones I've ever seen. And the priciest as well...

Nandi
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Postby Fred Goodall » Sat Jun 17, 2006 1:55 am

Hi Nandi

I removed the link for 3 reasons... the first being there was NO detailed information on central filtering, no pictures of central filter setup.
Information on pricing and stock WAS there, so I construe this as another "free advertizement" in violations of forum rules 5 & 7. When you intended to post URL's to commerical sites... run them past a moderator first.

He has a full page talking about a WORKING nitrate filter that he purchased and installed in Feb. of this year and while it reduced his nitrates he still changes 30% of his total volume daily. The information on turn over rate is the "standard" 2 X the total water volume of the system every hour, maxium oxigenation of water berfore it hits the filter bed and staying with water changes to remove organics and phosphates.

For Svetozar's needs.... either Merlin constant flow R.O. system or 3 X 150 gpd R.O. units would work for him... or a a combination of Merlin for all but the breeding tanks. Depending upon Svetozar's tap water nitrate level... the average 90 % rejection of nitrate by the Merlin system might be fine for his use... compared to the average 98% nitrate rejection of TFC R.O. systems.
Regards,

fred :hat:

"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were; and I say, "Why not?""(Bernard Shaw)
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Postby Svetozar Savin » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:51 pm

This are awesome answers all informations I need. :thumbsup:
This My idea is long-term investment I have plan to realise in the future.

Freda has give me a link to the dph aricles which i have read all ready wery cerfuliy but i have not got the right information abotut automatic switch of the pump which function is cycling the water in the sistem which i have goth form the Tom (thanks Tom).

Yes i have know thath the central filter sistems have lot advantages and the lot disadvantageg but for me this kaind of water filtaration is the best posible way to have cleen thanks and to encourage fish in to maximum breedin condition.
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Postby Fred Goodall » Sun Jun 18, 2006 12:12 am

Hi Svetozar :welcome:

If you quarantine properly and do NOT "rush" fish through quarantine, you will greatly reduce chance of "problems" in your system. Also... as you plan... each tank to have a "valve" on the pipes for the central filters... this way you can "remove" any "problem" tanks from the central filter system. And... if you want "protection" .... I suggest an UV unit on the out put side of the central filters. That way nothing from "problem" tank can go into any other tanks. You would "size" the UV unit to the "flow rate" of your pump for the central filter. Heaters can be in the sump of the central filter or in special "cartridges" depending upon the style of central filter you end up with.
Regards,

fred :hat:

"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were; and I say, "Why not?""(Bernard Shaw)
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Postby Svetozar Savin » Wed Jun 21, 2006 11:23 am

Last night I have just think about protection.
I have find thath the UV lamp provide good protection against allmos any type of bacterial and viral infections.

Now is time to some one put photographs of his sistem!
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Postby Fred Goodall » Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:50 am

Hi Svetozar :welcome:

If go to the Photo Album from the link at the top right of the forum... then look for these member's names... click on the name... you will be able to see their photos... look at the "thumb nail" pics... click on the ones of the filters... or other pics you are interested in... you get taken to a larger view of that pic.
  • Alex Galea
  • Mihai Victor
  • Ben Moore
this is just a start... just to give you the "feel" of how to go through the DPH Member's Albums.
Regards,

fred :hat:

"You see things; and you say, 'Why?' But I dream things that never were; and I say, "Why not?""(Bernard Shaw)
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